England - York
March 2019
For such a small town, York has a wonderfully complex history. Originally settled as the Roman town of Eboracum, it became the Viking town of Jorvik several centuries later, before evolving in to the York we are somewhat familiar with today. A diminutive town complete with medieval walls, a grand cathedral, cobbled streets, low-roofed houses, and a slow running river that bisects it, York continues to feel quite removed from its time. The many ruins dotted around town illustrate this rather well – there is a stark disconnect between what was and what is.
The whole place has a certain timelessness and odd sense of refinement. Unfortunately this image was quickly shattered once the English started drinking…
Being a long weekend, our early forays in to York were disrupted by throngs of people evidently away for a boozy weekend. Bucks & Hens parties seemed to be the flavour of the week. All over town people were rambling on, rolling about, shouting aloud, and generally making a mess of themselves – all of this commencing well before sundown. It was a strange contrast that affected our first impressions of York. The surrounds were fantastic, yet the place had a Las Vegas feel to it.
Staying just outside of town in a cute Airbnb loft, we quickly made for the town via the Micklegate Bar. We were blessed with clear, blue skies and everything seemed to be in full bloom – it now being spring and all. It was nice to simply walk along the town’s walls, beside ancient ruins, and through emerald green parks.
One of our first stops was a rather famous part of York: The Shambles - A very photographic and extremely well-maintained set of houses and streets which date from the 14th century. The rickety houses seem to fall inwards, or sit against one another, with each being painted with different colours or put together in a beautifully haphazard way. They should fall over, but they don’t. There is a certain magic to it. Perhaps think of Diagon Alley and you aren’t far off.
Since there are so many Tea rooms dotted about the Shambles, we made a point to stop by a two during our stay – Earl Grey and Betty’s. Stepping away from the madness of the high streets to take tea and Yorkshire scones made for a lovely break on both occasions - particularly when that was met with the distinct accents and hospitality of the Yorkshire people. The kindness and warmth of the locals shone through each and every day.
Further north, the centrepiece of York is undoubtedly York Minster – a grand, yet understated, Cathedral that dominates the otherwise low skyline. I don’t know about you, but when I’m trying to conjure up thoughts of monumental churches, Britain doesn’t often register for me, but between the York and Durham Cathedrals, that might be somewhat unfair as they are both sights to behold.
Hidden beneath the Minster, there is a surprisingly good museum which covers the Roman history of the town and the recent history of the Minster itself (particularly how it almost collapsed several decades ago). Given my interest in history, I enjoyed the chance read about how York came to be and see the Roman ruins which lie beneath the Minster’s catacombs and amongst the building’s foundations. Once Brigante, Roman, Angle, Viking, Norman, and now English; the layers of York’s history are literally visible in the soil beneath the Minster.
To the untrained eye, the Romanesque monument to Constantine the Great outside the Minster is odd. The trivia, however, is that Constantine was proclaimed Roman Emperor here in 306 CE and went on to advocate and legalise Christianity in the Roman Empire, a significant step in its rise to being the de facto religion of the West. If you went to Catholic school and have heard of St Constantine – that’s him.
Upon many recommendations, we also made time for the Jorvik Viking experience – unfortunately I was absolutely not impressed. It was pricey, relatively short, and lacking in exhibits. I couldn’t help but laugh at the Disney-like animatronics that were the main attraction – think: “It’s a Viking world after all” and you’ll get the picture. Probably fun for kids, but in my opinion, not worth the time, praise, or cost. Give it a miss.
Outside of these three places, the Minster, Viking Museum, and Shambles, there wasn’t all that much to see in York, so the remainder of our time was spent enjoying the fairly good pub scene, wandering the streets in search of antiques, and spending time with Amy’s brother, Sam.
Sam came up to join us on our last day, as he lived only an hour or so away in Huddersfield. We caught up at the Star Inn, the oldest pub in the city. We tried the local craft ale, talked politics, and chatted about the upcoming Australian election. It was great. We finished the evening at Brigantes, where we enjoyed a roast dinner (complete with a Yorkshire pudding as big as my fist), and a few pints thereafter at the local BrewDog pub.
Aside from the strange, in-your-face, and at times obnoxious, party atmosphere in the air, I had a good time in York. I would recommend coming if you’re nearby, but you’d only need 1-2 days here, as there isn’t all that much to see. Walk the Shambles, check out the Minster, wander along the city walls, enjoy the Yorkshire hospitality, and travel on.
We’ll be back to middle England soon enough.
JC
“Maybe that’s enlightenment enough: to know that there is no final resting place of the mind; no moment of smug clarity. Perhaps wisdom...is realising how small I am, and unwise, and how far I have yet to go.”
Anthony Bourdain
Comments