Scotland
February 2019
Looking to make the most of the pretty good rail system in Scotland, Amy & I made a number of day trips from Glasgow during February; including Stirling, Balloch, and Pitlochry.
Our first stop, Stirling, is a famous historical town that sits on the divide between the highlands and lowlands. Once upon a time, the commonly held thought was: whoever controls Stirling controls Scotland. The formidable Stirling Castle sits proudly above the town, seemingly watching over the whole valley. Well-kept houses, cobbled streets, and old ramparts – Stirling has aged very well and it is a delight to visit.
We arrived in the early morning and made way to Darnley House for a relaxed brunch, before visiting the National Wallace Monument - just outside of town. We passed over the picturesque Stirling Bridge on the way. With were blessed with perfect, sunny weather.
For those who aren’t familiar with the story (or haven’t seen the rough story in Braveheart), Sir William Wallace was a famous 13th century Scottish knight, who rose to be the patriotic figurehead of the First War of Scottish Independence. Winning a number of key victories against the English (notably including one at Stirling Bridge) he quickly became a national hero, before being captured. Found guilty of treason, Wallace was hanged, drawn, and quartered, with his head being displayed on London Bridge and his limbs sent to Newcastle, Berwick, Stirling, and Perth – as a lesson to any other sympathetic Scots. Wallace remains an important part of Scottish mythology and identity, hence why the imposing National Wallace Monument (and many other monuments for that matter) was built in 1869. A gaudy, yet impressive tribute, in Victorian Gothic style, it was worth the walk.
Returning to town, we didn’t feel the need to see the castle again, as we had visited it several years ago. We instead elected to wander the cemetery that lies at the foot of it. The weather remained cool and clear, so we simply sat atop a hill and took it all in.
Stopping briefly for coffee and cake, we then made our way home. Stirling proved to be a lovely day trip – quaint streets and gorgeous medieval architecture, steeped in history.
Our second destination was Balloch, a sleepy town at the southern end of the imposing and beautiful Loch Lomond.
Arriving in rather dreich weather, we quickly boarded the Sweeney’s ferry to see the surrounds. Although not as big as Loch Ness, Loch Lomond is just as stunning; still, whiskey-coloured water, surrounded by ragged fells and moors. It’s stunning, eerie, and exactly what you might picture when you think of the highlands.
It’s sublime - See for yourself.
Returning to town, we wandered up the main street to Corries for lunch. Being the middle of winter, the town itself was decidedly quiet, but given the surrounds, it didn’t take away anything from the experience. We had a typical Scottish lunch (soup and sandwiches) in a delightfully old tavern – complete with tartan carpet. Lunch included Cullen Skink, the famous Scottish stew, which consists of slow cooked onions, potatoes, and haddock. Not usually a seafood person, I was pleasantly surprised by the rich, hearty flavour and would recommend you try it as an entrée.
With the weather clearing to reveal a stunning blue sky, we wandered through Balloch Castle Country Park. Serene and peaceful, it was a lovely way to spend our last few hours in town.
Our final trip was an overnight stay in Pitlochry, a picturesque town at the foot of the highlands.
Staying in a lovely bed and breakfast, we kept ourselves busy in town by perusing the local stores, walking the river, exploring the nearby reservoir, and enjoying a number of local bars – McKay’s and The Old Mill Inn were notably pleasant. More than anything, however, we both just enjoyed being removed from the city – time passed very slowly up here and it was rather nice to just wander, read, or think quietly.
Our Sunday afternoon was a particular highlight, as we made the short walk out to Moulin, a small town a few miles from Pitlochry. We continued to be blessed with fine, almost warm, weather and enjoyed the rolling hills, wandering livestock, and the cute picture-perfect white houses which lined the streets. We stopped for a ploughman’s lunch at the Moulin Hotel, a gorgeous highland pub at the top of a nearby hill. Tartan floors, local ales, low ceilings, wooden furniture, a warm fire, and kitsch paintings, it was a wonderful way to spend another afternoon in Scotland.
With so many sights to see and towns to visit, I know Amy & I will be kept busy during our time here. There’s just so much more to see.
JC
“We reide of ane rycht famous of renowne, Of worthi blude that ryngis in this regioune, And hensfurth I will my proces hald, Of Wilyham Wallas yhe haf hard beyne tald.”
Blind Harry
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