Manchester, UK
Mid-August 2019
Another weekend away – returning to Manchester once again.
Having been to Manchester approximately one year ago, I left feeling somewhat underwhelmed as we were mostly there on business. Returning this time for leisure, I was pleasantly impressed with Heart of the North – relaxed and welcoming people, a vibrant music scene, trendy bars, and a number of boutique neighbourhoods make for a great mix. The food in particular stood out this time.
Catching the train down to Manchester Piccadilly, we quickly dropped off our things late Friday evening and headed out on the toon.
As South-East Asian cuisine is rather rare in Scotland, Amy and I have been craving anything that tastes vaguely Malaysian or Singaporean for some time. Having noted the restaurant, Penang, in the Northern Quarter, we very much felt the need to go. Roti Canai, Ayam Laksa, and Nasi Lemak absolutely hit the spot. To be fair, I over complicated my order and baulked under the waiter’s pressure – when in doubt, just order the curry laksa or char kuey teuw.
We then had a cocktail each around the corner at a cute little bar which I unfortunately forget the name of. A late night negroni went down well – as they often do.
The next day began with an excellent breakfast at 19 Café in the centre of town. Poached eggs, chorizo, and fritters with a siracha mayo; chocolate pancakes with assorted fruits; and well-roasted single origin coffee made me reminisce about breakfast back at home in Perth.
After another shop for vintage clothing in the Northern Quarter, we made way for the somewhat dodgy outer suburbs of Manchester to Bowlers Exhibition Centre and the Great Northern Ska Festival – the actual point of our weekend away.
Being a rather niche scene, it was rather small in scope, but it made up for that in passion – people were absolutely representing the ska-punk lifestyle – pork pie hats, rudeboy suits and rudegirl haircuts, suspenders, check shirts – all of it. It was great to see people who absolutely hadn’t turned away from their lifestyle.
The concert itself was awesome. The Skatuesques, Jeremiah Ferrari, and Neville Staples and His Band were the standouts and absolutely turned it up for the devoted crowd.
Catching the bus back that evening, we alighted a few stops early to check out a container bar that piqued our interest on the way out of town. A hipsters paradise, Hatch was a mix of over-priced but exceptional craft beer and cider, and food trucks. We grabbed a few pints and sat back with a mezze to talk through our thoughts about the concert.
The following day we went to the National Football Museum, which is rather well done, with a wide array of exhibits from general football history, spectacular world cup moments, unique club perspectives, notable figures, and several sombre tributes to football tragedies – it’s done in a way that’s quite compelling, so that even if you weren’t a sports fan, you might enjoy it. I’d recommend it if you are looking for something different to do.
After quick shop in Manchester central, we were back on the train back home to Glasgow. I only realised once I returned to Glasgow that there was relative quiet on the streets – there is a certain incorrigible belligerence you become accustomed to along Argyle and Union street. Perhaps I missed it.
I left Manchester with a much more favourable view of it – it certainly deserves more credit, as it’s a truly cosmopolitan city that is very much worth your time. If you got there, watch out for the bumblebees.
JC
"Manchester has everything except a beach."
Ian Brown
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