Nürnberg
Late December 2018
Continuing our Christmas Tour of Germany, we moved onwards to Nürnberg. Once a free imperial city in the Holy Roman Empire, its history remains on show; grand cathedrals, gorgeous open air markets, a walled old town, and a castle overlooking the entire city. Nürnberg is most well-known for its annual Christkindlesmarkt – an enormous Christmas Market that takes over the entire old town during December.
The market itself is set within the old town, a few stops on the U-bahn from us, at the foot of the town hall. It consists of rows upon rows of small wooden stalls, with a dizzying array of offerings: wurst, bread, marzipan, Christmas pudding, toffee, sweets, ornaments, lace, beer, wine, mead, cider, spirits – it’s almost too much. Almost.
Being Germany, things are ordered, sensible, and efficient. Although the market is enormous and the accompanying crowd heaving, you never feel boxed in or crowded. Being so well-known, there is a delightful mix of locals and blow-ins, making for a joyful, exciting atmosphere.
Feeling full of cheer and Gluhwein, we wandered about and perused the stalls. We left with some delicious marzipan coated gingerbread, and Christmas cake. Our dinner consisted of German staples: wurst, bread, and potatoes. You might expect me to be sick of German food by now – you’d be wrong.
We were surprised to turn a corner to find an international section, complete with a Glasgow & Scotland stall offering tartan, haggis, and whiskey. I was excited and oddly proud to see it. Glasgow will be about ye.
Walking home we were again treated to marvellous views of the town centre; streets, churches, and buildings alike were decorated gloriously. Somewhat plain during the day, Nurnberg gleamed brightly at night time. The whole evening remains a spectacular Christmas memory for me.
The next morning, we made our way to the Kaiserberg – the old royal castle that overlooks the town.
Set across a river and on a hill well above town, it is an imposing visage. Built around the year 1000, it certainly fits the overall feel of the town, with its High German, Holy Roman Empire style.
After enjoying the view and the crisp morning air, we began making our way home. After briefly stopping at a local coffee shop for breakfast, we hurriedly walked past St Sebald’s church, along the quiet, pastel-coloured backstreets, and beside the peaceful canals that line the old town walls..
Our 24 hours in Nürnberg gone, we made our way to the bus station to catch a coach to Prague to meet Amy’s sister, Eloise, who we hadn’t seen in months. Needless to say, we were excited and joyful in equal measure.
Previously, I would have used the phrase “Short, but sweet”, but were corrected by our friend Hannes (https://coadj01.wixsite.com/mysite/blog/karlsruhe-one-step-beyond), who preferred the German version: “Short, but good”. Leaving Nürnberg after having just got there, it felt the most apt way of describing our time.
Onwards to Prague.
JC
“I will honour Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all the year. I will live in the Past, the Present, and the Future. The Spirits of all Three shall strive within me. I will not shut out the lessons that they teach!”
Charles Dickens - A Christmas Carol
Comentários