Newcastle
Early September 2018
Extravagant, cleaved in two by the Tyne, known for its debauched night life, and peculiar slang; the home of the Geordies has a mixed reputation. We were lucky enough to be shown around by an old friend, James, who ensured that we had a wonderful time. James' efforts really put us on side with the North. The vibe is really quite different up here.
After a gentle cruise (but deeply disrupted sleep) across the North Sea, we arrived in North Shields. After being politely, but sternly questioned by border security, we caught the bus to Newcastle Central Station. Unfortunately, we had issues contacting our Airbnb host so proceeded to stand aimlessly outside of M&S for a few hours, waiting for a reply. Fortunately, James came to our rescue, and offered us temporary lodging, sustenance, and sweet, sweet, Wi-Fi.
After getting ourselves booked in and settled, we headed out several hours later. We met James again at The Botanist for cocktails. I ordered the house Negroni, complete with rosemary and burnt orange. If Campari doesn’t put you off, do try it – it’s my favourite cocktail. We then went to the Alchemist around the corner, where we again ordered cocktails – completely misjudging how much straight liquor we needed so early in the night.
We then walked down Grey street and across the Millennium Bridge to Gateshead, where we reached an upmarket container bar – HWKRMRKT. We ate a mix of Korean, American, and Mexican, sharing between us. We then walked next door to a sleek bar (that I can't quite remember the name of) for a few more well-poured beers. Although I was a bit taken aback by the cost of this rather trendy endeavour, it made for a lovely first night in the UK. Thanks, James – a dead good time & top notch scran.
Walking home up the now decidedly ungentle slope of Grey Street, we stopped for cheesy garlic chips at James’ recommendation. So bad, but so good. Along the way, we got to enjoy the antics of the completely mortal locals stumbling around. People clearly like to let loose in Newcastle.
I really enjoyed the open friendliness of the locals; people were just pleasant to be around and I always felt safe. Things were delightfully weird too - people were often loud, boisterous, irreverent, or just clearly enjoying themselves - particularly along Northumberland street, Quayside and near Grey's Monument. That's to say nothing of the make-up and fashion of those going out - it's another world entirely. Some might be put off since there can be a lot in your face at any one time, but I found it hard not to like Newcastle. It felt vibrant, youthful, and lived in.
The following day we ended up doing a lot of admin in the morning – new SIM cards, a bit of shopping, bills, etc. – nothing exciting, but necessary. We did stop for a nice meal at the Olive & Bean, and were quite surprised, but pleased, to see that flat whites have finally made their way across to the UK – there’s hope yet for British coffee.
Afterwards, we drifted around town to see a few sights: Newcastle Castle, the Tyne River Markets, Newcastle University Campus, and Newcastle Cathedral. I was struck by the sense that history has slowly built Newcastle from the ground up, over centuries - it's a marvelous mix of old and new. In the afternoon, we met with James again, heading to the Redhouse pub. Unfortunately, most of the beers weren’t available and there were only 3 pies left in the place. Nonetheless, we all ended up eating and drinking well, and had a lovely time chatting by the windowsill about UK/AU cultural differences, homesickness, how strange the room temperature ‘real’ cask ale is, Geordie lingo, and our future travel plans. It was great to see James and hear a friendly, familiar voice.
A note on 'real 'cask ale: unfiltered, unpasteurised beer brewed and kept simply in casks, without significant carbonation. Cask ale is taken very seriously in Britain and is a seperate, but related, scene to craft beer. It is generally served at room temperature and hand pumped from the cellar. It is delicious enough, if you genuinely enjoy beer, but obviously tastes quite different to more standard draft. Next time you're in Britain - give it a try!
I certainly enjoyed my time in Newcastle and would happily go again. Things are well and truly different up in the North – a starkly warmer and care-free vibe when compared to somewhere like London.
Leaving Newcastle, we headed onward to Edinburgh via the TransPennine Express. It was our first stop in Scotland and the first step in our new life.
Excitement, trepidation, hope, doubt, and eagerness filled my head.
JC
“I see no hopes for the future of our people if they are dependent on the frivolous youth of today, for certainly all youth are reckless beyond words... When I was young we were taught be discreet and respectful of elders, but the present youth are exceedingly disrespectful and impatient of restraint”
Hesiod, 8th Century BCE
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