Glasgow, the Lowlands and the Isle of Arran
Late July
So Amy and I will be doing the West Highland Way in late July – a week-long 96 mile hike that’s rather well known in Scotland, and perhaps to some hikers abroad. Obviously that's no small distance, so we’ve been doing our best to get out and pound the pavement/gravel/grass as often as possible. Notable hikes recently include Goatfell on the Isle of Arran and the John Muir Way, which lies between Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Arran is a picturesque island off the west coast of Scotland, commonly described as being Scotland in miniature, due to its dramatic and varied landscape. One Sunday, we purchased a ‘rail and sail’ ticket and travelled from Glasgow to Brodick, via train and ferry – it’s a steal for 16 quid. Reaching Brodick around noon, we immediately set off for Goatfell.
Unfortunately, this being Scotland, the weather was average, but the walk was phenomenal, with the scenery gradually changing as we climbed upwards: dense woodland gave way to sparse moors, which then became rocky outcrops and barren cliffs. Mist enveloped the summit during our entire ascent, but luckily the weather seemed to clear just as we reached the top.
The time for our descent was announced when thunder began to break in the surrounding skies – it was close enough that the bass seemed to shake our lungs – the lightning and thunder were only seconds apart. We hurriedly dragged our tired legs back down to the Arran Brewery, for a late afternoon tea (read: pint), where another group of Irish hikers took the time to assert strongly that I was the splitting image of Roger Federer – not sure about that. Perhaps it was the headband.
Catching the second last ferry off the island, we made way back to Glasgow – almost falling asleep as soon as we sat down.
The following week we caught the train to Linlithgow, a small town between Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Our day was actually a bit rough because of the previous day’s happenings: the West End Beer Festival. Meeting with some of Amy’s softball friends on Saturday, we went to a low-key craft beer event in Glasgow’s West End. We consumed several pints well and truly before to sundown; so naturally, this then quickly became a pub crawl in Glasgow proper. We were even joined by a girl from the U.S; Victoria, a military sergeant no less, who was travelling alone up from England – the more the merrier. Our rather large group stumbled to Hootenanny’s, then to the Horseshoe bar via Taco Bell, before finishing at a pool hall until the very early hours. People were ordering whisky at one point – it was a bit of a blur. As a result, I don't seem to have any photos.
Trying to shake off the night before, a full Scottish breakfast was required. Fortunately, Linlithgow has Café 1807, which delivers in spades. Amy was particularly impressed by the vegan haggis.
Now, I’m sure most of you are aware of Haggis, but I doubt many of you have actually tasted it. The idea that mixed offal, oats, and spices in a sheep’s stomach would actually be satisfying to eat is rather strange, but I can assure you that it doesn’t taste like what you think – it’s delicious. I would wholeheartedly suggest that you try some if you are up this way. While you do, make sure you double down and try black (or white) pudding if the opportunity presents itself.
Anyway, back to the hike.
Rejuvenated, we walked around the corner to Linlithgow Loch and the dilapidated, yet gorgeous, Linlithgow Palace. Having wandered about to enjoy the scenery for a while, we set off to Falkirk, 10 miles away.
Relatively flat and running alongside the Union canal, the John Muir Way made for a beautiful, if somewhat uninteresting walk, since the surrounds of this particular segment didn’t change all the much.
The canal’s waters seemed to wander along at our pace, following us.
The trivia regarding John Muir is that he was a 19th century naturalist from Scotland, who became a well-known environmentalist, particularly in the U.S, where he was instrumental in convincing Theodore Roosevelt to create a national park system, preserving among other things, Yosemite National Park – which Amy & I plan to check out at some point in the future...
Finishing our walk well ahead of schedule, we caught the next train home. Although uninjured, and not really in any great discomfort, we continued to be slightly apprehensive regarding the sheer length of the upcoming West Highland Way.
Only a few more weeks to go…
Our July finished with a visit from a friend from Germany, Hannes, who we joyfully toured around Glasgow for a few days. We hit our favourite haunts; the Kelvingrove Museum, Glasgow University, the Necropolis, and a number of pubs - Inn Deep in Kelvinbridge, Brewdog in Merchant City, Waxy O’Connors near George Square, and Sloan’s Bar in the alley behind us.
We were even lucky enough to get free tickets through my work to see Rangers vs Marseille at Ibrox.
It was short but good!
To be fair, Amy’s July ended a week or two later, since she had herself a family trip to Italy. I wasn’t at all jealous that I couldn’t get time off. Not one bit.
JC
“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings”
John Muir
Comments