Cologne
Late August 2018
Cologne/Köln surprised me. I knew about its eccentricity, peculiar local food culture, rivalry with Düsseldorf, niche beer scene – but I honestly didn’t think I’d take to it like I did. Köln is set on the Danube, cutting it in to east and west It was devastated by Allied bombing in the war, so due to its relatively recent (and rather pragmatic) reconstruction, it has a rather drab, yet somehow endearing aesthetic, with the magnificent Köln cathedral and bridge the centrepieces of town.
We were lucky enough to meet up with a friend of mine from Perth, Matt. I doubt that Matt, having never been to Germany before, was quite prepared for how seriously we took it upon ourselves to sell it to him.
Köln is fairly limited in attractions, but I was pleasantly surprised by the Museum Ludwig – for those of you who don’t turn your nose up at a bit of modern art, it’s worth a few hours of your time. They have an extensive collection that includes Picasso, Pollock, Lichtenstein, and Warhol.
We ate and drank well, as you often do in Germany. Schnitzel at Bei Oma Kleinnmann. Wurst and Schweinshaxe at Brauerei zur Malzmühle. Turkish Kebap, Halve Hahn, Himmel und Erde, Bretzlen – lots of little treats that I didn’t even know I’d been missing this whole time.
What Köln lacks in sights, it makes up for in Gemütlichkeit: cosiness, comfort, contentedness - Similar to the Danish Hygge. Köln has an elusive and strange fondness, an ease of being.
The people here are a lovely multicultural mix who seem to take it upon themselves to be kind, welcoming, friendly, and generously helpful, at all times.
Matt & I experienced this first-hand when we were drinking in town on night and struck up a conversation with a waiter who was wearing a wrist splint. Both of us being Physiotherapists, we were compelled to find out what the issue was. We proceeded to complete an adhoc physiotherapy session and the waiter was so pleased that he brought us free beer and invited us to staff drinks after the bar closed. We then proceeded to share drinks at an Irish pub (strangely enough) around the corner, before being invited to another staff drinks further down the road – being offered free drink after free drink, without any expectation or chance to return to the favour. We stayed until close, shared many a thank you, hugged it out, and returned home to nurse a heavy hangover.
The following day, Matt and I reflected on how warm and welcoming everyone was – all we needed to do was be open and honest, and people literally poured beer for us just so we could chat. Gemütlichkeit, indeed – thanks, Sebastiano.
Regarding beer, Köln pretty much only offers Kölsch – the provincial style of lager. Only served in 200cl glasses, Kölsch is served ice cold every few minutes by the attentive waiters, who continue to bring beer to your table until you surrender by placing your coaster over your glass. Orders are kept track of by marking said coasters. It’s quaint and rather strange if you aren’t used to it, but grows on you very quickly – rather like Köln, really.
Köln may not be high on your list, since most people should probably get their heads around Germany by visiting Munich or Berlin first. That being said, Köln offers a very different trip and a home-away-from-home vibe that I’ve not really felt throughout the rest of Germany. I’d heartily recommend spending several relaxed days here, if your itinerary allows. Drink Kölsch, order a
Halve Hahn, chat to the locals, walk the bridge at night. You’ll love it – we certainly did.
JC
“Here decent beer is a way of life. It’s a birthright. You don’t talk about it too much. You freakin’ drink it.”
Anthony Bourdain
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