Edinburgh
Late October 2018
My sense of distance is slowly changing now that I’m living in the UK. Growing up in Perth, you get used to half-day flights being normal when traveling in Australia. It’s now such a treat how close Europe and the British Isles are to us. Case in point – the past few weekends we’ve caught the train to Edinburgh for a day trip. It takes about 45 minutes. How good!
Weekend #1
Having heard about the splendour of Holyrood Palace, we made a point to get out there on a rather dreary day. Arriving at Edinburgh Waverly station, we duly made our way down the Royal Mile to Holyrood – the Royal Residence in Edinburgh. On the way we stopped by a few of the shops along the street; An old canvas map shop catching my eye in particular. I continue to regret not buying that pretty map of Auld Scotland.
Holyrood is still a working palace and the Queen still entertains dignitaries here throughout the year. Photos of previous attendees adorn most walls and I found it humorous to spot an awkward looking John Howard amongst the photos of other notables, including presidents, kings, queens, and popes.
The palace itself was wonderfully kept; built in neo-classical style and set amongst a manicured garden below the dramatic Salisbury crags. It is just another reason why Edinburgh feels so magical and otherworldly. The grounds also include the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, which stands enduringly at the rear of the Palace. The contrast between the living grandeur of the palace and the humble ruins of the Abbey is a stunning reminder of the inexorable march of time.
Our ticket to these gorgeous grounds also included entry to the Queen’s Gallery, which was currently showing a small, but charming, Venetian art exhibition, including pieces from Canaletto and others.
Walking back through town we stopped by a tea room on the Royal Mile – unfortunately I don't recall the name. Seemingly cut out of the old stone masonry of the adjacent houses, it made for a delightful afternoon tea – scones and cake too, naturally. The owner certainly added to the scene; a lovely, doddery, old lady with typical Scottish attitude who couldn’t do enough to help us.
With the sun going down, it was time to leave, soon to return several weeks later.
Weekend #2
With the forecast being unusually fine, the goal of our second weekend was to climb Arthur’s Seat, the highest point around Edinburgh.
Amy and I started the day with a Cornish pasty, which we ate at nearby Calton hill. Calton hill, which lies to the east of Princes Street, grants marvellous views of the Edinburgh town centre, as well as the outlying suburbs and nearby coast. It houses an observatory, yet another monument to Lord Nelson, and the Athens Acropolis-inspired National Monument. We both enjoyed a slow morning; wandering over the rolling hillocks, feeling the wind buffet us about, and sitting just to take it all in.
I’m always surprised at how close Edinburgh actually is to the coast. It feels so removed from everything. Like its own world.
We then wandered down from Calton Hill towards the Royal Mile, passing through a cemetery on the way through. I find the odd silence of a cemetery rather reflective, calming, and almost comforting. Is that just me?
Returning to Holyrood house, we were met with the imposing tableau of the Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat. We began climbing.
Surprisingly, although Arthur’s seat is only 251m above sea level, it’s actually an extinct volcano. This makes sense given the landscape – sheer cliffs, rocky outcrops, savage bluffs. The hike itself isn’t particularly challenging, but due to the winding nature of the trails, it takes a little bit of time and effort. At the top, you are rewarded with stunning vistas and a frightfully cold wind. It's absolutely worth your time and if the weather is good, I highly suggest you do it.
Tired and sore from our second weekend break from Glasgow, we stumbled back up the Royal Mile to stop at Mimi’s Little Bakehouse for a well-earned coffee and cake, prior to returning to the train station - Half asleep, but feeling accomplished.
As we say on the train, watching the sun go down as we made our way back west, I remember thinking about how close we are to the rest of the world, yet how far we are from so many people in history. Do you think those who built the Holyrood Abbey expected it to fall apart and be left in ruins? Like us, they probably expected that what was in front of them would be sure to stay – like Arthur’s Seat and the Crags. Reflecting, I can’t help but be reminded to use my time wisely.
JC
“How small a part of the boundless and unfathomable time is assigned to every man! For it is very soon swallowed up in the eternal. And how small a part of the whole substance! And how small a part of the universal soul! And on what a small clod of the whole earth you creep!”
Marcus Aurelius
PS. I've realised that because I've been formatting things to be viewed on desktop, the mobile formatting is a little all over the place. Apologies. Use your laptop or PC to get the intended look.
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