Cordoba – Spain
Early October 2019
Perhaps there wasn’t anything to figure out – Cordoba was just itself.
Seated on the course limestone edge of a fountain, underneath the citrus trees of the Mezquita’s Patio de los Naranjos, I tried to figure out how to describe Cordoba. A soft wind blew, the sound of running water and the dull droning of tourists was about. I found the task difficult.
Cordoba was pleasant, relaxed, friendly, old, culturally varied, and welcoming – but that seemed all too general for a rather unique place. Not my favourite by any means, but certainly one of the more interesting places I've been in some time.
So instead of wrestling with a specific definition, I sat back with Amy and enjoyed the shade of the orange trees for a while longer.
Cordoba lies in the south of Spain and is fame for its mix of cultures: Christian, Jewish, and Muslim. Before the Catholic Reconquista, Cordoba spent 800 years as an important city in various Islamic Caliphates. Before that, it was controlled by Visigoths. before that, Romans. Before that, Phonecians and Iberians. Although undeniably Spanish, the city (and Andalucia for that matter), continues to display its mixed history through its language, food, and architecture.
No other place in the city is this more obvious that the Mesquita, the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba. Having been expanded over several centuries by Islamic Caliphs, the Mesquita was converted in to a Cathedral in the 1200's. It now exists as a beautiful mix of eastern and western religious art – Symmetrical Islamic arches give way to baroque columns, an ornate golden Mihrab sits near to a centuries old painting of Mary.
South of the Mesquita lies Cordoba’s ancient Roman bridge. Just north, the well-preserved Jewish Quarter – complete with one of the three last surviving Synagogues in Spain – Jewish people having been expelled by Catholic Monarchs, Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand II in the 1400's.
Walking along winding cobble stone streets, beside pastel-coloured houses and beside hidden gardens, wrought iron gates, and luscious patios, you can’t help but be charmed by Cordoba. Fragrances hang in the air as you walk along: citrus, spices, teas, and cured meat. At night, aside from the occasional scooter roaring past, you can occasionally hear the tell-tale clapping a Flamenco performance.
Perhaps elusive, is the descriptor I’m looking for.
We arrived in Cordoba at the back of noon on a bright, hot Tuesday. Our bus ride from Granada proved to be simply and comfortable – I’d highly recommend using the Spanish bus system to get around if you travel here as we had no problems whatsoever.
Upon reaching our Hosteria we set out for food – tapas, naturally.
Seated at a nearby taberna, we tried a mix of local specialities
· Flamenquin – thinly fried pork loin, wrapped over cured ham.
· Salmorejo – a tomato and olive oil based soup – similar to gazpacho.
· Berenjenas – lightly fried eggplant strips
· Tortilla de patatas – egg and potato omelette
Washed down with more Tinto de Verano, a summer wine spritz, it was a lovely way to spend an afternoon.
Later that evening we simply wandered around town. To the above mentioned Mesquita, over the roman bridge, and through the Jewish quarter, stopping momentarily at the diminutive Synagogue, before walking along the old city walls to the Victoria Markets and then back to the old town - ice cream in hand.
Dusk soon became night, so we headed to El Cardenal to watch a Flamenco show. Now, I’m not usually interested in dancing whatsoever, so this was me doing my best to keep an open mind.
Fortunately, I found Flamenco utterly compelling. Physically demanding, emotive, captivating, and passionate, it was a pleasure to sit down and be enthralled. Audience and performers alike applauded and shouted "¡Olé!" Throughout the night. I’d recommend seeing a show any time and any place – whether that be a choreographed Tablao like this, or a more impromptu show somewhere like Sacremonte in Granada.
Our evening ended at Bar Luseo where we sampled more of local specialities: Manzanilla wine, Cobo del rabo, and Pedro Ximenes. Our attentive waiter was an utter joy as he bustled about muttering importante importante between tables.
The following day began with an early wake up and cortado, as we were off to the see the Mesquita properly – with admission being free between 8.30-9.30am. As mentioned above, it proved to be a stunning and unique place.
Heading north along a few backstreets to Plaza de las Tendillas we stopped for coffee, tostadas and churros at Cafe Don Pepe, prior to having a shop along a few high streets.
We then went on a free tour of the old town, which although was a little short on information, made up in passion. Amy then went home for a siesta and I went for a run.
Returning to the Mesquita distrct, we stopped at Bar Los Santos for tapas – their famous tortilla patatas. We then headed to Califa a craft brewery, who had a surprising array of excellent local brews – with the Red IPA being the standout. A goats cheese, orange marmalade and tomato tostada finishing our dining for the night – it sounds like an awful mix of flavours, but it works trust me.
Suddenly it was time to leave, off to Seville for the second last stop of our trip. Having taken to both Granada and Cordoba so much in the last few days, I was eager to see much more of Andalucia.
JC
"The risk of a wrong decision is preferable to the terror of indecision."
Maimonedes
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